Adventure Post: Our Final Corrida in Utrera

Well, like we said, no rest for the weary. After our unexpected night in Illescas, we boarded a train bound for Sevilla to go watch our favourite torero in Utrera. Our seventh corrida in nine days, and our sixth one to watch him.

The train in was uneventful, as was our arrival at the hostel. We honestly didn't do much in Sevilla this time around, mainly because we were only there for two nights. Our hostel wasn't a party hostel, but it did advertise a pool on the roof, which we were both a bit excited about. We both wanted to relax with a drink and a book under the Sevillian sun during our couple of days of not much planned. Unfortunately, it was out of order. C'est la vie.

We managed to rent a car in Sevilla with no problem whatsoever. Just like the first time. Passports not required, and they accepted Jack's digital driver's license. It was a breeze to get through, and the staff was great. We rented from RecordGo both times we were in Sevilla. While these small car rental places always pose increased risks in the form of nickel and diming you for every little thing you don't document, we had no problem with them either time. They put a hold on Jack's card for a full tank of gas, and then immediately released it the next day when they saw that we had put in a full tank. Normally we wouldn't plug a company like that in a blog post, but they were great to work with both times, especially after our experience with Enterprise in Madrid.

Utrera was about 30 minutes outside of town. Not a hard drive at all. We arrived and had to circle the town a couple of times to find parking. Those streets were packed with cars on both sides, even in the no-parking zones (which the local police were writing tickets for). We found a dirt parking lot that cost us one euro to park in, and walked our way in. Since we had a bit of time before the toreros showed up (Jo wanted to get Borja to autograph a stuffed animal bull she had bought in Madrid), we decided to grab a drink and food at a fairground across the street. The food was ok, and the drinks went down easy. About as expected at a fairground. Unfortunately, this was overshadowed by a gathering at the table next to us where a husband and wife ended up having a major fight with the kids present and their friends trying to calm them down while also taking sides. It was loud, there were tears, storming offs (multiple times), and we're sure the alcohol didn't help. Not to mention their kids were right there. Real life happens to everyone everywhere.

We missed Borja showing up, because our entry was on the opposite side of the bullring than the toreros', which was kind of a bummer, but, again, c'est la vie.

Now, we had bought great seats on the front row of the tendido (which is behind the ultimate front-row seats of the barrera and contrabarrera), but it had rained most of the night and morning, and our foot areas were FULL of water. We were both a little irritated with it, but what were we going to do? Blame mother nature? So we retreated to an empty row a few rows up. Not a big deal. The bullring wasn't massive, so we still could see just fine.

On the lineup tonight was Esau Fernandez (who we had not seen), Borja Jimenez, and Francisco de Manuel (who we had seen in Colmenar Viejo). What a night this was! It started off with a brave bull against Fernandez. Fernandez was really good, and, combined with the bull's qualities, ended up with the bull being pardoned! This was something we didn't think we'd see. Every time Fernandez went in for the estocada, the crowd protested for him not to slay the bull. He would then back off and look at the president. When he got no response, he'd set it up again only to be met with another protest. This happened several times until the president hung the orange handkerchief over the box. The bull was pardoned, and the crowd went wild! Fernandez tossed his sword away, saluted the bull, and applauded it. It is hard to describe the emotions in the bullring that day, because it was such a fantastic experience. The respect for the bull, the celebratory cheers from the crowd, the knowledge that the bull was going to be rehabilitated and released back into the pasture for a long life of freedom and mating. It was amazing. This was the corrida we had come to love! As a final gesture, Fernandez lined up as though he was going to perform the estocada, but used his hand to tap the bull instead of his estoque, then he applauded the bull once again. Eventually, the steers came out to guide it out, back to freedom in Andalucía.

After that amazing start, we then watched both Borja and de Manuel (who we have started calling FD Manuel, based on his Instagram handle) take on more brave bulls. The lot in Utrera was a world of difference from Colmenar Viejo. They were spectacular, and they did their ranch and their bloodlines proud. Borja and de Manuel also had fantastic performances. We knew they would be great, as we had watched them before, but this was an excellent night for both. We also saw Daniel Duarte, the banderillero, who we had been impressed with since we saw him at the unico espada (where he was supporting Borja and his team). He actually won an award that night for best banderillero!

All three matadors that night cut at least two ears, which meant they could be carried through the puerta grande. Jo hadn't gotten her autograph yet, and time was running out, so she handed Jack the stuff bull to see if he could get it. Jack went down to the barrera just behind Borja, and called to him. He turned around, and when asked if he could sign it, he said yes! Jack tossed him the bull and a marker, and Jo got her autograph. He also offered to sign Jack's hat, but Jack actually wears it, so he declined (and there was already a bloody handprint stained on it from the time he through it to Borja at the unico espada!). We watched the three of them get carried out the puerta grande, and then Borja was shaking hands and taking pictures before getting carted off to his hotel. Jack asked him for a picture with Jo and the bull, and he agreed again!

We both agreed. This was one heck of a night to end our bullfighting season on! We were both hyped at the end, and more than a little bit disappointed to be missing out on the rest of the season. Luckily, Jack subscribed to Onetoro.tv, so at least we could watch them from afar!

Where we stayed: Oasis Backpackers' Palace (Sevilla)

Jo's Favourite: Getting "Borjito" signed by Borja!

Jack's Favourite: The pardoned bull!

Top Lesson Learned: If you want to get that autograph, you have to jump in and ask!

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